Wagner-Stempel’s 2022 Heerkretz Riesling Grosses Gewächs is a taut and bone-dry white wine from a wind-swept, volcanic site in Rheinhessen. Harvested from 35-year-old vines on a steep porphyry slope, this vintage manages to stay lean and athletic despite the warmth of the year. It opens with notes of citrus leaf, pine needles and a smoky mineral scent reminiscent of wet flint. On the palate, the wine is compact and vertical, driven by a sharp acidity that highlights flavours of tangerine and grapefruit zest. The finish is remarkably saline and grippy with a chalky texture.