1997 saw a low production, high quality vintage, and this Guado al Tasso is concentrated, opulent and seductive. Fistfuls of red and blue fruits dance with mocha, peppery spices, licorice and tertiary notes of black tea, warm leather and umami, but for all the earmarks of maturity, this rich wine has a youthful structure, gliding across the palate with energy and verve.